We love vanlife and why it's perfect for a wonderful Tuscany road trip
Why we love vanlife
On our travels around the world, we’ve often hired campervans to live in while we explore a destination and bought a couple of vans at home in Ireland. For some people, going camping or living in a van by choice sounds like utter madness but for us, it’s the ultimate freedom. A home on wheels where you get to be outside as often as possible yet feel safe and cosy inside if the weather turns, or moving your home to another beautiful location, is heaven to us.
Over two decades we’ve experienced vanlife on the west coast of Australia, all over New Zealand and all around Ireland, and it was our wonderful Tuscany road trip that reignited that spark, reminding us why we love vanlife.
Road trip through Tuscany, Italy
After our city breaks in Bologna and Milan, our 2 weeks in Italy couldn’t have ended any better than with an amazing Tuscany road trip. Of course, the Tuscan hills and its myriad of stunning medieval towns have been well enough documented and photographed to be on every wanderer’s bucket list but we were still completely awestruck by its beauty.
Wanting to embrace the freedom that vanlife has always given us, our itinerary was completely flexible and that’s why it’s absolutely perfect for a Tuscany road trip. For Neil, especially, having everything we needed in the van meant we could spend unlimited time at a location for those jaw-dropping landscape images he planned to take. For a landscape photographer, vanlife offers a huge advantage.
What kind of campervan did we hire in Italy?
Before we left for Italy we came across a company called yescapa.co.uk which is similar to Airbnb but for campervans. Campervan owners use it to rent out their vans when they’re not using them and they come fully equipped and insured. If you’re on a budget, it’s a much cheaper option than standard rental companies and you know you’re going to get a van with a little personality.
With no reason for us to try and drive a behemoth around tiny Tuscan roads, we found the perfect van for just the two of us…
Haha got you there! We’re not that adventurous!
Our real van was a converted Mercedes Vito with a pop-top roof, a sink with running water and the ability to cook inside (we named him ‘Macro’ after one of Simon Scarrow's main characters from his Roman Empire novels). The fact that it felt more like driving a minivan, this by far, ticked all the boxes for our vanlife needs. It was back to basics and we loved it!
Driving on the wrong (right) side of the road in Italy
Okay, I have to admit it here, my nerves were shattered on our first-day driving! I hadn’t driven on the opposite side of the road in a long time but thanks to Neil’s careful navigation skills and keeping an eye on the traffic I managed to stay calm (just!). After a food shop and lunch in the van, the plan was to head as far south as we wanted to go and then make the last day of our trip, 8 days later, the final leg back to Bologna Airport to drop off the van. It was a tough drive though. The rain was very heavy with massive thunderstorms following us the whole way south. After 6 hours of white-knuckle-driving, we made it to our first overnight park-up.
First night in the campervan (beside a graveyard!)
Anytime we’ve ever gone camping or hit the road in a campervan our first night is always filled with paranoia and rattled nerves! Everything goes through your head on the first night. Can you sleep in a van in Italy? Will we get the dreaded knock on the window? Are there murderers waiting until we are asleep? Maybe wild man-eating predators or even ghosts?!
Parking up beside a graveyard may not have been the wisest choice but the location was perfectly peaceful and nicely hidden away so we had to overcome our fears! We found it on Park4Night which is an essential app for vanlife with real and useful reviews on parking spots like basic services, noise level and cost, if any.
We were greatly comforted by the good reviews of our parking spot on the app and with a little wine and some reading we sufficiently distracted ourselves from scary thoughts.
Sunrise over stunning Civita di Bagnoregio
Neil had already researched where he wanted to take his first classic Tuscan image, Civita di Bagnoregio which was settled by the Estruscans over 2500 years ago. It’s a little off the beaten path but can still draw the crowds so our top tip is to get there very early. Lubriano, a little town opposite stunning Civita is perfect for an overnight stop if you want to get into the official car park in Bagnoregio before the hordes (no ticket desk either!) and catch the sunrise overlooking the iconic medieval citadel. Neil set off at around 5 a.m. and caught the best of the light, albeit on a misty morning.
It’s an awesome sight to behold, the city walls hewn from the limestone cliffs they’re perched upon. Rising above the lush green valley below, it’s only accessible from the bigger town of Bagnoregio by a snaking, narrow footbridge. Sadly it’s now known as ‘the dying city’ as its very foundations are eroding away beneath it, already causing some of the buildings to crumble and fall.
With the mist hanging heavy around us we decided to leave Bagnoregio without entering the citadel itself. A couple of tour buses had already arrived and we just didn’t fancy jostling our way around its tiny streets. It’s definitely a place we’ll return to as we’d love to take an off-season road trip in Italy in our own campervan (there’ll be a blog post about building our van at some point!) and spend a little longer.
Making coffee in our campervan
On our way to Radicofani we had a little coffee break overlooking Lake Bolsano and the sun appeared ever so briefly to highlight its beautiful blue water. Oh yes, the van is equipped with a Moka pot of course! Can’t beat a fresh brew with a view, one of the perks of vanlife!
Radicofani
Radicofani was our first foray into exploring a Tuscan town and we were utterly charmed. Although the grey skies weighed heavy above the tiny fortress town, the absence of any other tourists and only the ambient sound of bird song seemed like we’d stepped back in time a few hundred years.
The imposing Fortress of Radicofani, built on top of a 900-metre basalt outcrop, dominates the village of winding cobbled streets and beautiful stone houses, which underscores centuries of historical significance. It was the perfect introduction to Tuscany.
Using Park4Night again we found a peaceful little spot up on the flank of the basalt hillside, with spectacular views across the beautiful Val D'Orcia mere footsteps away. From here we could see the route up to the fortress but we were starting to get hungry.
Making dinner in our campervan
Greeted with smiles and nods from locals on our walk down through the streets, we stumbled across a little gem of a shop with tons of local produce. The owner, a kind Italian gentleman, plied us with samples of cheese, honey and wine. We bought it all and enjoyed a delicious starter of fresh bread and delicious cheeses before dinner.
The skies began to clear, so while Neil set up for a sunset shoot, I cooked us up some pasta in the van and opened the wine. Delicious local produce and wine straight from the Val D'Orcia with a panoramic Tuscan sunset - now that’s why we love vanlife!
With a blue-hour stroll through hidden alleyways and piazzas to top off our first perfect day in Tuscany, we fell asleep to the sound of cicadas, excited for the days ahead, especially Orla’s birthday the next day!
Fortress of Italy’s Robinhood
Waking up a year older with a freshly brewed coffee overlooking rolling, Tuscan hills, well, it’s a rare and beautiful thing! In fact, the entire day was magical.
Starting with a hike up to Fortezza di Radicofani, an exploration inside the fortress revealed a fascinating 1000-year history and outstanding views from the top of the tower.
The original 9th-century castle held a strategic position on the Via Francigena, a vital trading route stretching all the way from Canterbury in England to Rome. In the 13th century, Ghino di Tacco, Italy’s own Robinhood, took up residence and became a local legend, robbing only from wealthy travellers.
His statue stands proudly in the village and he even got a mention in Dante’s The Divine Comedy. Changing hands over the centuries, the castle’s fortifications were strengthened as they played a vital role during the many conflicts of medieval Italy. Tickets are around 4 euros and include entrance to the tower and underground passages.
Hot Springs in Tuscany
Driving towards Montepulciano we stopped in Bagni San Filippo to fuel up on more coffee and fresh pastries on the pretty terrace of Mimmo e Barbara and a chance to experience a natural thermal bath in Italy.
We followed the street towards the pine forest and signs for The White Whale. It’s a huge calcium deposit with hot spring water tumbling over it into sulphuric pools.
It gets busy here as it’s where the water is warmest, so we picked a path among the trees to find our own personal bathing spot. If you don’t mind scrambling a bit off the beaten path there are plenty of little pools to sink into. Within moments we were soaking in pleasantly warm water, surrounded by the sound of birds and frogs nearby.
A slight drizzle permeated through the leaves adding a sparkle of enchantment to the lush green forest around us. It made for a very romantic birthday in Tuscany!
It took all our might to drag ourselves away from it but Montepulciano beckoned and vanlife proved perfect again as we were able to comfortably dry ourselves and get changed in the privacy of our little van before hitting the road.
Montepulciano
At home getting a bottle of red wine that said Montepulciano on it meant we were really treating ourselves! What a treat to be actually walking into the wine cellars where some of the best bottles of this Tuscan variety were on display. A sample (or two) at Cantina Ercolani, lead us deeper into an underground city of secret passages and ancient Etruscan tombs.
Winding stone staircases follow the footsteps of medieval noblemen meeting beneath palaces of power to plot the next political manoeuvre and rooms with cruel devices of torture alongside workshops with simple tools for combing wool.
It is absolutely worth taking this totally unexpected tour of Montepulciano’s past and there’s no pressure to buy anything, just take it all in and sample outstanding local produce while absorbing fascinating history. This was definitely a highlight for us.
A Classic Tuscan Sunset
Although wine was on our mind we had worked up quite a thirst from the day’s adventures. When we found a tiny piazza with a view of the Tuscan countryside and cold beer on tap - the evening was set.
After all, for the sake of landscape photography, we needed at least an hour on either side of sunset to make sure all possible compositions were captured.
Just to be safe, four hours of sitting on the old walls watching the light change and drinking beer sounds about right! Just look at the results!
Neil goes into the detail of shooting these images over on his photography blog, Behind the Lens. Check it out here.
Tuscan Evening Strolls
When you know your little house on wheels is ready for your sleepyhead mere steps away, night-time strolls in old Tuscan towns just become a habit, especially at blue hour. Centuries-old stone releasing the day’s heat and iron street lamps barely lighting the way, before we knew it, we’d missed the dinner bell and all those aromas of truffle and roasted meats would have to wait until tomorrow.
So distracted were we by the twisting streets and piazzas we just caught a pizza place before it closed. Late-night pizza and wine for a birthday dinner topped off a magic day. The free car park beneath the town walls felt safe and ideal for campervans so we could have the pop-top roof up and sleep in our second-floor bedroom!
Vanlife practicalities in Tuscany
Doing our laundry in Tuscany
It has to be done when you’re living in a campervan so you might as well enjoy the views from this self-service laundry in Moltepulciano! In fact, most towns have self-service laundry facilities that are well-maintained and reasonably priced. Just type Lavanderia into Google Maps and you’ll find them easily.
Where’s the bathroom?
There will be nights without facilities. This is a controversial topic and vanlife has gotten bad press lately around what impact it can have on the environment. In such a small van we didn’t have a toilet but there are ways to ensure you won’t pollute the local environment.
We have always followed the rules of leave-no-trace while hiking and camping at home in Ireland and apply this to our adventures abroad. There are tons of new eco-friendly products that complement our efforts like Traveljohn and these are only for emergencies.
If you’re on a road trip in Tuscany, you’ll find plenty of public bathrooms that are well maintained and free. Just type bagni pubblici into Google Maps and you’ll find them easily.
Campervan services in Tuscany
We use a basin and washcloth with eco-friendly camp soap by Sea to Summit and it all goes in the van’s grey water tank which can be emptied at plenty of locations around Tuscany. Lots of them are either free or really cheap and it's a great comfort to know there's one in almost every large town or city. We found this one just on the outskirts of Siena and it was ideal for our halfway point on the trip. Just type area di sosta into Google Maps and you’ll find them easily. Make sure you read the google reviews to find specific services like showers etc as some of them might only be parking for campervans.
Showering Facilities in Tuscany
One of our top tips for vanlife is to use local swimming pools when you need a shower. Found near the bigger towns and cities, they’re cheap, very clean and usually have convenient parking. All you have to do to find them is type Piscina Comunale into Google Maps. Nothing would stop us from enjoying life outdoors when we were camping so it’s no different on a vanlife road trip through Tuscany.
Sunset at Cappella della Madonna di Vitaleta
In Pienza, there were hoards of tourists and it wasn’t long before we lost patience. Instead of trying to battle through bodies we picked up some lovely picnic ingredients at the local agriculture consortium before heading on for another photography location on Neil’s list.
As for most classic images of Tuscany, this little unassuming church has become a mecca for landscape photographers. Regardless, for Neil, it didn’t matter how many times he’d seen its image, it was something he just had to photograph himself.
Walking into the meadow beyond, sitting among the wildflowers and looking back at the little chapel, it’s easy to see the appeal. Picturesque doesn’t do it justice and as the light changed throughout the evening, it was everything I dreamed about the Tuscan countryside.
I chilled out with a Moretti or two while Neil and other photographers lugged their gear from one side to the other looking for the perfect composition. Obviously, Neil captured it best.
Our campervan was parked about fifteen minutes’ walk from the church. With very little light pollution, the sky was strewn with stars and we sat beneath them in the cool night air. Neil headed back to the church later for some astrophotography which he cut short because of an encounter with a wild boar! He’ll go into more detail in his upcoming blog post on photographing Tuscany so keep an eye out for that.
Next morning the light was so beautiful we just had to keep stopping to take photographs, especially with the blooms of late Spring, early Summer. There had been plenty of rain so everything was lush and colourful. The poppy fields were a lovely surprise on our Tuscany road trip, we really weren’t expecting that. Of course, I had my flowery dress and yellow hat to pose in!
There’s an abundance of picturesque picnic spots in Tuscany so we had plenty of opportunities to enjoy our coffee and pastries on our road trip.
After a short stop at the famous cypress tree-lined roads in the Vale d'Orcia, we were ready for a little adventure, to find a hidden waterfall, Cascata del Diborrato, near the town of Colle Val d'Elsa.
Swimming in Tuscany
Thinking google maps had sent us wayward, it was hard to believe we would find a cascade and natural swimming pool in what looked like an industrial area just outside the town. Parking up at the sign for the cascades, we followed a woodland trail to a river of almost turquoise water.
People were sunbathing and swimming all along the banks of the river and a small trail took us down beside the cascades that tumbled into cool deep pools, hidden by the tall trees from the outside world. We just couldn't believe it, it was so beautiful, it felt like a secret Eden. The fresh cold water enveloped us as we swam, a gorgeous relief from the hot Tuscan sun.
Campervan parking in Volterra
Feeling utterly refreshed and reinvigorated we drove on to Volterra. Arriving around 6 p.m. we decided to park for the night at the Area Sosta Camper. The Area Sosta park-ups are dotted all over Tuscany and again, very well maintained and cheap to use. This one had power points for campervans and it was perfect with plenty of trees for precious shade. It’s also ideally located near one of the main entrances into the town, Porta e Fonti di Docciola, which leads to a stone staircase that takes you into the heart of Volterra.
Dining in Volterra
In the cool of the evening, with no crowds, we enjoyed an easy stroll around Volterra’s maze of medievel streets. Neil had already researched where we were going to eat and he found a treasure that definitely needs to be booked in advance. La Vecchia Lira is a local delicatessen by day selling the finest produce from Tuscany and at night their passion for those ingredients culminates in an exceptional dining experience.
Neil’s steak, a specialty Tuscan-raised beef, came to the table hidden beneath a cloche of smoked aromatic herbs for dramatic effect and incredible taste.
I opted for ravioli. In my entire life up to that point, I had never tasted such silky, smooth pasta, perfectly cooked, the way it should be and the flavours inside were simply stunning. Needless to say, the wine recommended by the knowledgeable staff completed a truly unforgettable meal. Bellies full, we rolled back to the van and then slept like fat, happy pigs!
Top attractions in Volterra
The heat in the van the next morning stopped us from wasting half the day in bed and we planned on being proper tourists for the day. Starting with a strong macchiato in town we picked up a Volterra card for discounted entry into all the sights and museums and it’s absolutely well worth it. Valid for 72 hours it includes access to the Guarnacci Etruscan Museum, the Pinacoteca (Painting Gallery), Alabaster Ecomuseum, Palazzo dei Priori, the Acropolis and Roman Theatre all for just 16 euro.
The Medici Fortress is not included as it is now a high-security prison and no entry is allowed. It’s an impressive building dating back to the 14th century and can be seen dominating the skyline from the surrounding countryside.
Volterra History
Palazzo dei Priori is the oldest civic building in Tuscany, built originally in 1208 and it’s exquisitely well preserved. Apart from damage to the tower from an earthquake which had to be rebuilt, its original medieval features are intact.
The Council Chamber with its impressive cross-vaulted ceiling, religious fresco and coats of arms is still used to this day for City Council meetings. Standing inside, centuries of political power plays and historic moments are almost tangible, bound in all the dark wood and worn stone.
The Bell Tower is absolutely well worth climbing for jaw-dropping views at the top.
Lunch in Volterra
For lunch, we truly had the best sandwich of our lives! At Al Vicolino just off Piazza dei Priori, we were served freshly baked bread stuffed with wild Boar Porchetta, pecorino cheese and truffles, washed down with a cold Birra Moretti. I would eat 12 of them right now…excuse me while I look up flights!
On to the Ancient Etruscans
Evidence of the Etruscan settlements in the region date back to before the 8th century B.C. including the ancient walls surrounding Volterra, one of the Etruscan civilisations’ most important cities. The Etruscan museum is a treasure trove of incredibly detailed sculptures of alabaster and volcanic rock, intricately carved jewellery and beautiful pottery.
The intensity of expression and individual character in the faces of the sculptures, and the level of skill to accomplish it, is awe-inspiring. It’s hard to believe when you’re looking at the artefacts in the museum that they are around 2,500 years old. It’s a fascinating insight into the ancient tribe that laid the foundations for most of the major towns in Tuscany and should be a priority on a visit to Volterra.
To reach the Etruscan Acropolis it’s a lovely walk passed old stone buildings up to a peaceful public park surrounded by trees. There are fantastic views of the Medici Fortress and out across the landscape.
Cisterna Romana
Near the Acropolis, it was a complete surprise to us finding an ancient Roman cistern that you can actually get inside. A winding metal staircase takes you deep underground into a stone chamber supported by huge columns. It’s a very cool place in both senses of the word. Getting respite from the midday heat and appreciating the scale and ingenuity of its construction, the Cisterna Romana is absolutely worth checking out.
Roman Ruins
The Roman ruins just outside the walls of the town are some of the best-preserved in Italy. The remains of an amphitheatre and baths are clearly visible but it’s not possible to walk among the ruins, understandably so. Although we had seen the remains of a Roman Temple on our visit to Evora in Portugal, these ruins are intact enough to imagine the hustle and bustle of an ancient Roman city without crowds of visitors.
The best view is from the terrace above on Via Lungo Le Mura del Mandorlo where locals gather for a little sunset picnic.
Gelato in Tuscany
Given that we said the gelato we tried in Bologna blew our minds, well, we hadn’t yet had a taste from L'isola del Gusto Gelateria.
Going all in we had mint, lemon, pistachio and cherry and each one was like angels crying on our tongues! There is no way we can decide whether Bologna or Volterra gave us the best so we’re just going to have to go back!
Medieval Festival in Tuscany
Wandering with our gelatos into Piazza del Priori, another lovely surprise sprang up before us. We happened to be there for the “Palio del Cero”. It’s a celebration dating back to medieval times held every year on the 2nd of June. A blend of religious and civil traditions, representatives of the 8 districts form a ‘contrada’ and compete against each other in a tug of war.
Everyone is dressed in medieval costumes, there are crossbowmen, drummers, lots of banners and flags representing the districts, a fantastic atmosphere and a genuine sense of tradition. None of it feels remotely put on for tourists and an amazing amount of effort goes into the craftsmanship of the costumes and weaponry. The competition is taken quite seriously, and you can sense the respect for the council of the Prior and Contrada dressed in ceremonial robes overseeing the whole event.
Witnessing an important festival celebrated by locals and slices of everyday life we encountered on our wanderings, solidified our feeling that Volterra is very much a living Tuscan town, not just preserved for tourists. It certainly stands out as one of our favourite places to have visited.
In the evening we settled for a pizzeria tucked away in a narrow alley and watched the swifts swoop overhead against the blue-hour sky. After such a packed day we were glad of our little bed in our van only a short walk away. It was great to have the reassurance of plugging in the van for the night and having everything charged for our next adventure. Volterra has it all and is a perfect place to stop for any vanlife adventure!
San Gimignano
After a traffic delay on our way to San Gimignano that lasted over an hour we were pretty hungry but luckily we had plenty of lovely food still stocked in the van and we stopped for a panoramic picnic admiring ‘the Manhattan of Tuscany’ from a distance. It really is amazing seeing San Gimignano from this perspective and you can certainly appreciate its nickname.
Yet, this wasn’t the perfect image Neil was after. Using locationscout it was imperative we found the exact location to plan an epic sunset shot. Luck was on our side because not only did we find the perfect spot but just down the road in Santa Lucia we came across a campsite that couldn’t have been more perfect for our needs. With June well underway we were feeling the heat and this campsite had a pool. Well, we couldn’t say no! It wasn’t too busy so we found a shaded spot and popped the roof.
Neil got his gear ready and walked down the road to set up. I happily cooked in the van and became meals-on-legs, delivering our dinner to the side of the road where Neil had set up. What a fantastic dinner with a view of San Gimignano!
Travel and landscape photography adds such a wonderful dynamic to our trips. The images Neil creates take time and it’s a wonderful way to practise slow travel. Instead of running around, packing in as much as possible in one day, sometimes it’s lovely to just sit for a few hours taking in a scene and watching the light change with no obligation to move or do anything. Neil’s expertise produced yet another gorgeous image of a classic Tuscan scene.
When the sun was well and truly gone we strolled back to the van elated and enjoyed a restful sleep with the roof opened up, a gentle breeze keeping us nice and cool all night.
The campsite sells wonderful pastries which we had with our freshly brewed coffee in the van. We squeezed in a lovely dip in the pool before setting off for the town. Not far from the campsite is the bus stop for a free and regular shuttle bus to San Gimignano and we weren’t waiting too long before the bus arrived.
San Gimignano without the crowds
Our timing was perfect as well as we arrived late in the afternoon and we saw the day trippers and crowded bus tours leaving. It certainly made our wanderings around the streets a lot easier and gave us plenty of time to capture the charm of San Gimignano.
Panoramic Views of Tuscany
Finding our way up to Parco della Rocca, a wonderful green space with the ruins of a medieval fortress right at the top of the town, the panoramic views were well worth the climb up. With benches and lovely trees for shade, this is a great place for a rest and admire the paintings on sale from local artists.
Again with the gelato! Can’t get enough of the stuff and each place just keeps topping the last. Gelataria Donboli may actually be our top favourite gelato on our entire Italy trip! It’s only around the corner from Piazza del Duomo, a pretty square with a great view of the Torre Grossa, the tallest of San Gimignano‘s towers.
An expensive café has an enviable spot here that we couldn’t resist. Just to sit and admire the view of the tower and the Duomo we ordered a beer at Caffè Mokamag.
It’s on the expensive side but it’s a very romantic spot to wait for the magic of blue hour.
Like gelato, our evening meals just kept getting better. Perucà topped our Tuscany trip off wonderfully. Stepping down into a beautiful old stone cellar with dark furnishings and low light, the romantic setting couldn’t have been more perfect for our last Tuscan evening out. Neil was delighted to see wild boar on the menu, cooked to perfection in red wine and spices and the pork belly creation I ordered just melted in my mouth. It goes without saying that again we loved the wine chosen by our server.
Our last evening is probably the best way to describe why vanlife is perfect for a Tuscany road trip. After savouring that wonderful meal over a couple of hours it was late and we may have been a little tipsy so we had another fun little wander.
If it wasn’t for the fact that our van was parked outside the city, we wouldn’t have enjoyed such an amazing night-time stroll through the countryside to our campsite. The stars were shining above us, the air was warm and the medieval city was beautifully lit. Our slow meander along the vineyards beneath the city of towers revealed a sparkling dance of fireflies among the vines and we just could not believe our eyes. It was a truly enchanting end to a wonderful Tuscany road trip.
Hopefully, you’re inspired to take a road trip through Tuscany and good on you if you managed to read all the way through this monster post! There was just so much to share about the trip it was hard to stop writing! Do consider hiring a campervan, it’s such a great way to experience Tuscany and get in touch if you have any questions not answered here!
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